Fishing from a float tube is a great way to slip up on stock pond fish without spooking them. Plus, it warrants the luxury of being able to manuever into tight places where you can make precise casts that otherwise would not be possible.

It takes a certain amount of nerve to bail off into a moss-infested stock pond in a fishing tube, especially when armed with nothing more than a featherweight stick of graphite and a fast hand to discourage a precarious ol’ cottonmouth.

But perhaps that’s what makes fishing from a belly boat such an intriguing facet of angling. Not only does it put you in a vulnerable position to slip quietly into secluded water where the big boys live, but it also allows you to get into places where a cumbersome boat would be sure to blow your cover and possibly spoil your chances.

Such was the case early last fall as my friend and I sized up the possibilities of a 3 1/2-acre lake nestled in far northeast Texas.

The lake, one of three in a chain, was constructed about 20 years ago and has since become grossly overpopulated by bass, crappie and channel cat. Needless to say, catching usually is not an issue, here; deciding how many fish to clean is.

Like sunbathers looking for a last-minute fix, the two us stripped down to our skivvies, kicked back in the comfort of our tubes and set out across the shallows towards a thick bed of coontail moss. The moss, which began growing about 20 feet offshore, had pretty much consumed the perimeter of the mini-lake and formed a well-defined wall where shallow water met deep.

The outer edge of the grass was begging for a lure, indeed. Only problem was, we had to get there first, which by no means provided us an easy task.

Kicking the fins on our feet for horsepower, we fought, tugged and literally tore a path through the matted vegetation, occasionally reaching ahead to grab a handful of the green muck for a little extra torque. My friend totally broke his code of honor when the lush weeds began wrapping around his legs like the tentacles of a strange creature trying to prevent him from passing. This is some nasty stuff, to obscure his profanity.

With the grass finally behind us and gin-clear water at our feet, we eased almost silently around the edge of the moss and caught assorted stringers of bass, bluegills, crappie and goggle-eye perch. And despite the fact most of the fish were small, they still provided the ultimate match for our ultra-light tackle and the elementary techniques employed.

Casting was a waste of time. Instead, the trick was to drop an 1/32-ounce crappie jig crappie straight down by the mossy break, preferably along an indention or at the tip of a point, and jig it up and down. If a fish didn’t run out of moss and nail the tiny bait in a few seconds, we’d simply move a few feet, repeat the process and eventually find a taker.

While a jon-boat probably would have sufficed, the float tube is an excellent alternative when it comes to fishing stock ponds and other small bodies of water.

Not only are they more economical, but they are also much easier to tote long distances when vehicle access in limited. Furthermore, a belly boat will allow you to slip unnoticed into secluded haunts and blend with the environment without the worry of creating fish-spooking racket.

But the advantages of tube fishin’ don’t stop there.

A fishing tube also warrants the luxury of being able to maneuver into tight places where you can make precise casts that otherwise would not be possible. Plus, your body is dissected in half by water, thus placing you at eye level with the fish and at arm’s reach of a refreshing splash if you wish.

While the logic behind fishing from a tube remains the same today as it was 55 years ago, the basic anatomy has undergone a drastic facelift.

Sure, one can still construct a makeshift belly boat from a 20-inch tube, a plastic ice-chest lid and a few feet of 1/4-inch nylon rope to hold the seat secure. But if you want to experience tube fishin’ at its finest, shift to the present and purchase one of the durable, more comfortable models on the market today.

The anatomy of the modern-day fishing tube most often consists of a rubber tire tube or plastic bladder inside a heavyweight, nylon cover with some sort of detachable seat or harness to suspend the angler. The cover will have zippers around the inner core, so the tube can be removed for storage or repair if needed.

Most quality fishing tubes also come equipped with a built-in backrest, which in reality is nothing more than a secondary float chamber intended to provide more flotation at the rear of the tube, where it is needed.

Other common features include zippered pockets for storing lures, lunches, etc…, a convenient casting apron that comes in handy when retying or changing baits, a rod holder and several D-rings for holding landing nets, stringers, etc…

Fishing tubes are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and price ranges, the latter depending on the quality of the tube and the number of extras it has to offer.

Some companies still make tubes that maintain the original “doughnut shape”, while other have switched to a tapered cover design that lends additional flotation towards the rear of the tube.

Of course, no tube fishing system should be considered complete without a way to get around in the water. There are two options – swim fins or paddles – the most popular being swim fins.

Paddles, which consist of a plastic heel cup with a hinged sideplate attached, are tiresome to use, work only on the downstroke and they lack speed. Despite these disadvantages, some tubers still prefer paddles over fins, because they allow you to move forward rather than backwards.

That’s hardly what I’d consider an even trade for the extra torque you’ll get out of a pair of good, wide-draft swim fins. Swim fins, in my opinion, are the heart of any float tube system, because they propel you across the water, help hold the tube in place in high wind and enable you to turn on a dime.

Like the tubes themselves, there are a number of flipper designs on the market today. Some are constructed to provide easy walking when on land or in shallow water, whereas others are more cumbersome and will make a gymnast appear clumsy.

What you should look for in a pair of swim fins are those that provide maximum power with the very least amount of work. I use “Turtle Fins,” which strap snugly over my tennis shoes or wader boots and provide torque on both the upwards and downwards stroke. Since these fins do not float, I’ll secure them to my ankles with strings to prevent losing them in case of slippage.

While the belly boat does provide a unique and inexpensive option to boat ownership, it also puts the occupant in a rather vulnerable position should he come across a curious ol’ cottonmouth looking to hitch a ride.

But what the heck. There is a setback to just about everything. And that’s one with which I’m willing to contend – for the time being, anyhow.