One of the benefits of steelheading is the opportunity to experience the huge variety of rivers that are home to our favorite quarry. On one end of the spectrum we have tiny headwaters streams, running through lush rain forests – rivers so small that any possible holding water is obvious, even to the novice. On the other end of the spectrum we have huge rivers, flowing through high dessert country – rivers that intimidate us with an expanse of possible holding areas that may take a lifetime to fully unravel. The Snake is one such river. Last November I visited the Snake River near the entrance to Hell’s Canyon. There I found perhaps the most unique steelhead fishery in the Northwest.

To say that the Snake is a large river is like saying Mount Rushmore is a big rock. The Snake is huge, enormous, awesome. At Heller’s Bar, where I stayed, the Snake is 660 feet wide, up to twenty feet deep and moving like a freight train. I was frankly intimidated. I was more than a little thankful that we were scheduled to fish with Victor and Dawna’s Guide Service. On my own, I would have had no idea where I would begin.

It seems everything about the Snake is big, except perhaps for the size of the fish, but more about that later. On the drive from Asotin I noticed that the average size of the aluminum sleds working the river was gargantuan. The locals tend to favor 22 to 28 foot sleds powered by mammoth outboards or major league V-8 inboards. Some are outfitted with dual V-8 with a total output of more than 600 horsepower. The other thing was that lots of fish were being caught. I saw at least a half dozen rods bent and nets in the air as I jolted over the last eight miles of dirt road to Heller’s Bar.

The temperature had dropped rapidly over night, not good news for steelheaders. Frost covered everything. Even dressed like Eskimos, we were having trouble keeping warm while waiting at the boat launch. As we marveled at the size of the sleds launching at Heller’s Bar, perhaps the biggest, fanciest boat of all pulled into the lot. I was also pleased to note the boat was outfitted with four dual burner propane heaters.

The instant we launched we could feel the awesome power of the river. Even in 28 foot, Bentz jet sled, the power of the big river was apparent. With 610 horses roaring beneath us, we headed across the river to a wide bar just above the boat launch. We ran to the head of the run then waited to cast until the boat slowly slipping down river. We cast upstream at a 45-degree angle to the shore and to be ready for a strike. Before I had drifted 100 yards my rod jerked twice then bent in a full arc as I set the hook on our first Snake River steelhead. The fish fought well. Twice it took sizzling runs. We were wondering how big the fish might be when it jumped twice as if to answer our questions. To my amazement this strong scrapper was less than six pounds. None of us could believe how hard this little steelhead fought.

I was busy looking at the spectacular eastern Washington scenery when the next fish bit. It took several strong tugs on my line before my mind slipped back in gear and I set the hook. Fortunately, egg cure is a good one. Once a steelhead starts munching on the bait they usually keep after it until they have it all or you set the hook. It was perhaps six pounds, but it fought like ten. I released my fish and grabbed my camera to record some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen.

We worked our way down river, fishing alternately from one side of the river to the other. Fishing was excellent. Sometimes we would go an hour without a strike, then we might hook two fish, ten minutes apart. By day’s end we had landed eight steelhead and had lost a screamer that tore upriver and broke me off on a rock before we could get a look at it. It might have been a big “B” run fish, but we will never know.

A short distance above Heller’s Bar the canyon narrows. The river squeezes between soaring basalt and limestone walls. The bottom of the cliffs are polished smooth by sand carried by the surging water. For miles the river alternates between rapid riffles and class two and three rapids. This is no place for an inexperienced boater.

We stopped at the confluence of the Salmon and Snake rivers to try side drifting in a very fishy looking run. Three passes convinced us nobody was home. We roared farther upriver, past the mouth of the Imnaha River, which comes in from the Oregon side. Just downstream from the Imnaha we saw a sandy beach that obviously had not seen the sun for many days. The sand was frozen into a million tiny crystals that gave it an eerie outer space look. More important, the water in front of the beach looked just the right speed and depth to hold steelhead. We instantly made the transition from sightseers into steelheaders.

Steelheaders who are used to rain forests, damp days and small rivers need to give the Snake a try. It is an altogether different type of steelheading but an experience any serious steelheader would love. Many people come to Heller’s Bar just to take a sightseeing trip into Hell’s Canyon. If you come in the Fall, you can enjoy the same scenery while you hook steelhead. What more could you ask for?

Planning a Trip

The “A” run fish usually arrive at Heller’s Bar around the end of September. The “B” run fish typically appear around mid October. The “A” runs stay in the area all winter long. In fact, March, April and May are top months on the Grand Ronde. The “B” run fish are primarily Clearwater River steelhead, but many head up the Snake and Salmon before returning to the Clearwater. There are strong numbers of steelhead in the region all fall and winter. But the weather can turn brutally cold by the end off November, which explains why so many local boaters have full canopies and lots of propane heaters.

The Snake is such a big river a boat is almost a necessity. Bank anglers do take fish, but not as many as the boaters. There is an excellent launch site at Heller’s Bar. From Asotin to Heller’s Bar the road closely follows the Snake. Bank anglers tend to concentrate around Heller’s Bar, but good fishing can be found anywhere you find holding water. Bank anglers tend to use floats with jigs or bait. Boaters prefer side drifting eggs or pulling plugs.

There is a restaurant at Heller’s Bar and a few spartan cabins are available. The town of Clarkston has several motels and restaurants. For outstanding Italian food try Palolino’s.

The Grande Ronde enters the Snake about a mile upstream from Heller’s Bar. A dirt road leads the Grande Ronde for about a mile then crosses a bridge and dead ends on the opposite bank The lower Grande Ronde has excellent bank access and many fine fly bars. Bring a wading staff if you plan to fish the Grand Ronde. It is treacherous wading!

If you fish from the Washington side, all you need is your license and steelhead punch card. If you go upriver into Oregon, you will need an Oregon license as well. Licenses for both states can be purchased in Clarkston next door to Palolino’s.

First time visitors should seriously consider booking a day or two with a guide. The Snake is so big and so strong that newcomers can get in trouble quickly.