There are a number of things bass fishermen can do to increase their odds of putting fish in the livewell. Unfortunately, the average angler doesn’t consider tackle care, organization and general maintenance important enough to include on their precious check lists. That’s hardly the case among the pro ranks.

Most of the top professionals – the guys who are consistently in the money and have managed to earn a living catching bass for 20-30 years – are just as particular about keeping their gear organized as they are keeping it in top-notch shape. They’ve learned from experience that a bait can’t work miracles for you if you can’t find it. Just the same, they’ve found that dirty-looking lure marred by a year’s worth of abuse or neglect won’t produce near as well as a squeaky clean one with the hooks honed to a piercing edge.

Much the same could be said in regards to electronic units, trolling motor props and outboard props. The electrical wire with a shoddy connection can cost you valuable time on the water. But a prop that’s been damaged in the line of duty can be a real nightmare, particularly when you don’t have the tools nor a spare to replace it with.

What follows is a rundown of the things I do to keep my fishing stuff organized and in top-notch working order:

Lure Care

Professional anglers with household names have at their disposal an endless supply of lures. But ask any one of them and they’ll be quick to tell you that once a particular bait has proven itself as a fish catcher, they’ll go to great lengths to preserve it for as long as possible.

No matter if we’re talking spinnerbaits, crankbaits, jerkbaits, buzz baits or topwaters, special lures deserve special care. Not only should hard bodies and blades be kept clean and free of gunk and grime, but hooks and O-rings should be checked on a regular basis for signs of rust. When I’m at home and the weather is nasty outside is when I’ll do most of my dirty work. When a bait is found that needs cleaning, I toss it into the stainless steel sink in my shop and go to work. The first step I take is to remove all the hooks and O-rings. Next, I sprinkle some Comet or Ajax on the lure and rub it lightly with my fingertips. The abrasive cleaner removes any grime that may have accumlated on the bait, while at the same time dulling the finish somewhat to give the lure an even more “realistic” look.

Surface rust on hooks and O-rings is dealt with in much the same manner. However, I’ve found that a small brass wire brush will tackle the scrubbing chore much more effectively than doing it by hand.

If the hooks and O-rings are badly rusted, which is often the case with lures that have been exposed to the elements for extended periods, I suggest replacing both with new ones. Just make sure and duplicate the original sizes. Otherwise, you’ll take away from the action of the lure or, worse yet, cause it to run untrue.

It’s also a good idea to check the bills on billed plugs to make sure they are secure and straight. Bills that appear to be developing some slack can easily be repaired using a two-part epoxy glue. Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits warrant some regular maintenance well. I like the blades on my spinnerbaits to be smooth and shiney, not rough and dull. To keep that out-of-the package sheen, I’ll first clean them with Comet, then polish them with a metal-cleaning abrasive called “Flitz.” It comes in a small tube and should be available at just about any hardware store.

Once the blades and head are polished to their original shine, I’ll oil the ball-bearing swivels and wipe down rest of the metal components with a penetrating oil like WD-40. If the skirt is faded or needs replacing, now it the time to do it.

Bait Storage and Organization

The life of a bass bait can be maximized by keeping it stored in a dry place when it’s not in use. Lures left out to withstand the elements of rain or intense heat will go bad in a hurry.

There are a wide range tackle storage units on the market today. The units come in just many styles as they do sizes. The traditional “tackle box” is constructed of hard plastic and has a number of drawers and/or removable dividers that allow the angler to customize the interior to accommodate an assortment of lures and other bass fishing paraphernalia. While “store-all” units will always have a place in the bass fishing world, they are not very practical in the eyes of most pro anglers.

We like to keep our spinnerbaits, crankbaits, Rat-L-Traps, soft plastics, jigs, Carolina-rigging and Texas-rigging tackle in individual compartments. Not only does this help keep tackle organized, but it simplifies the task of finding the lure you want – when you want it.

A tackle storage unit I’ve grown very fond of is the Tackle-Logic system. The system consists of a number of zippered cases constructed of heavy-duty nylon cloth. The unit is designed to hold several stowaway utility boxes for storing crankbaits, topwaters, Rat-L-Traps, spinnerbaits, Carolina-rigging components, worm hooks and slip sinkers.

Additionally, there are fold-over pouches equipped with an interior binder for holding a number of zip-lock bags. These removable bags are great for organizing and color-coding worms, lizards, plastic pork chunks, french frys and crawworms. The bags can be used for hard body plugs as well.

Other major assets of the Tackle-Logic system are it allows you to keep all your tackle in one place without out taking up a tremendous amount space. The system fits easily into my Nitro’s front dry box and there’s plenty of room to spare.

Marine Maintenance

An outboard gone bad can strand you. Faulty electronic wiring, a fouled trolling motor, busted prop or dead battery can cost you valuable fishing time. Bottomline is there’s nothing more frustrating than encountering mechanical problems on the water. To help avoid such mishaps, I perform routine maintenance checks on my rig before and after each tournament.

• Trolling motor props should be removed regularly and the closely inspected. Remove any fishing line that’s wrapped around the shaft. Left intact, the line will eventually eat through the seal and cause the unit to malfunction. It’s also a good idea to check the pivot pin. Replace it if it’s bent or showing other obvious signs of wear.
• Recharge deep-cycle batteries after each use, but avoid over-charging. Not only will this ensure that you’ve got plenty of juice for the next fishing trip, but it will help you get the most life out of the battery.
• Keep close check on all wiring connections to make sure each one is clean and solid. If you find a solder connection about to go bad, don’t wait until it snaps before you fix it.

There’s a difference between a well-rounded angler and a well-rounded angler who is prepared. The well-rounded angler may be very proficient at the game, but the one who is prepared won’t find himself scrambling around the boat and digging through paper bags in a frantic hunt for his four-inch watermelon Zoom lizards when he needs one. He knows exactly where his stuff is.