If you are one of those people satisfied with slowly dangling a worm beneath a float, then this article is not for you Fishing for walleyes on reservoirs is no place for the lazy.

Successful anglers often employ a run-and-gun approach using methods designed to cover the most water in the least time.

They realize that if walleyes were native to a river system before it was dammed to create the impoundment, then the reservoir’s walleyes have inherited the roaming behavior of their river-oriented ancestors. River walleyes are notorious for moving miles and miles in a single day. What many fishermen fail to see is that reservoir walleyes do, too.

Compounding the problem is that many reservoirs are 50 to 100 or more miles in length. But the main schools of walleye may inhabit only 25 percent of that stretch on any given day. It follows then the more spots you cover, the more success you will have.

So much space, so little time. You must have a plan. Start by limiting your search; scout the territory before you reach the ramp. Once on the water, use a good sonar unit to locate baitfish and/or walleyes on structure. Then use a few quick presentations to pinpoint active fish.

Simple. Here’s how.

Search and Destroy

Points are the primary structure that concentrate reservoir walleyes. Though the entire length of the lake may boast points that look like they hold fish, a few telephone calls to area bait shops can help focus on the portion of the reservoir where walleyes are most concentrated at the moment and reveal their general migration patterns. With that information and a detailed hydrological map, it’s possible to target high-percentage areas of shoreline with numerous points that may prove most productive. It then becomes a matter of getting on the water and moving as quickly as possible from point to point until fish are found.

Search for inside turns or minor points off the main projection which may hold fish in tight areas. A high-quality sonar with a sidefinder function can simplify the task.

If the screen reveals baitfish or walleye, it’s worth an extra cast or two before moving on. The best mix is walleyes six inches to 11/2 feet off the bottom with baitfish mingled in. If you see baitfish but no walleye at the moment, give the spot extra attention anyway – the baitfish will eventually attract predators. But don’t waste time fishing where there are no fish. If you don’t see signs of life, move on.

Shallow Fish = Active Fish

Walleyes in shallow water 12 feet deep or less are normally near the shoreline for just one reason – to feed.

Begin by casting a light jig tipped with a minnow, nightcrawler or leech at the bank ahead of your boat. A quarter-ounce jig usually gives ample weight in most situations to maintain critical bottom contact on a slow retrieve while moving the boat forward quickly. Switch to smaller jig and slow down your presentation once fish are found. The primary area to work is the first five feet back from the water line. Pay close attention to factors such as retrieve speed, jig color and the type of dressings that produce so you can duplicate the combination once fish reveal their preference. Walleye will tell you want they want if you listen.

Stealth is mandatory with this technique. A quiet, powerful bowmounted trolling motor allows close-up work without spooking fish. Its 48 pounds of thrust and 54-inch shaft makes it easy to maintain control of big walleye boats even in strong winds.

Crankbaits Cover ‘Ground’ Fast

Crankbaits are great tools to search large areas in no time. Select high percentage areas with lots of points. Set out deep-diving crankbaits such as a Thunderstick Jr., Shad Rap, Wally Diver, Shadling or a deep-diving Bomber 24A. Let out enough line to allow the crankbait to “tick” the bottom in 8- to 12-feet of water. Strikes typically come when you pass over the point and the crankbait clears the other side.

I also have had good luck using a planer board to run a shallow diving crankbait near the shoreline.

Once you catch a fish, mark the depth and key on the area while keeping an eye on the sonar. If action stops, a sidefinder may alert you when walleye move closer to shore or further out. Try casting jigs on the bank again or slow down to catch neutral fish in deeper water with a Lindy rig and/or bottom bouncer.

Number 6 Lindy rigs are best when walleye are belly-to-bottom down to 25 feet. A bottom bouncer is the right choice if fish are up a foot or more off the bottom or if snags are present.

Use a trolling motor if wind is not too stiff. Boat control is easiest if you work directly into the breeze or with it.

The important thing is to slow down while Lindy rigging. These are finesse tactics. You are probably moving too fast if you have to use more than one-half an ounce of weight. In strong winds, stealth is not so essential. Turn the boat into the wind and consider using a small gasoline kicker motor to power forward and use the trolling motor on the bow to steer. In very high winds, turn the boat perpendicular to the shoreline if you can and use a drift sock. The trolling motor or kicker can be used to move in toward shore or farther out toward deeper water to cover a wide path and range of depths. When a walleye strikes or when the sonar reveals baitfish or walleye, narrow the path of your boat to concentrate on that particular depth.

Factor in the Wind Effect

Wind direction can be a key clue to walleye location in reservoirs. In clear highland reservoirs, a stiff breeze can stir the shallows enough to create a mudline which enables walleyes to move to the shoreline to feed on forage fish stacked there. Even in stained or dirty lowland and flatland reservoirs, a persistent wind starts a prey/predator chain reaction by blowing plankton and other food for baitfish to the shore which, in turn, rings the dinner bell for larger fish. Remember, don’t expect consistent success on reservoirs by falling in love with a favorite fishing spot just because you caught fish there yesterday. Too often the motto of reservoir walleyes is, “Here today, gone tomorrow.”